Jewelry Dictionary

Glossary

Agate

Agate is a variety of Chalcedony Quartz and comes in many different color combinations. No two agates are alike. Varieties of agate include Blue, Blue Lace, Crazy Lace, Green, Indian, Moss, Tree, and Wood. Chalcedony (Agate) rates as a "Hardness 7" on the Mohs scale.

AGS

American Gem Society - A professional jeweler's society founded in 1934. AGS has a laboratory which grades diamonds and prepares a diamond grading report.

AGS Diamond Cut Grade

The American Gem Society has developed a system for classifying cut quality. The AGS system uses a scale from 0 to 10, where Cut grade 0 is Ideal, 2 as Very Fine and 10 is the lowest grade and quality.

AGTA

The American Gem Trade Association is the voice for the colored gemstone industry. Their Code of Ethics holds each Member to a high standard of professional business practices and a higher standard of enhancement disclosure than that required by the Federal Trade Commission.

Alloy

An alloy is a mixture of two or more metals.

Amber

A delicate, fossilized tree resin. Amber is available in a wide array of colors, the most popular ranging from yellow to orange, mimicking the color of honey touched by the setting sun. Other less common colors of amber include red, green, blue, violet and black. Ranging from transparent to opaque, the finest amber is clear with little or no cloudiness.

Amethyst

Amethyst is a member of the quartz family. Amethyst displays a majestic hue of purple, moving from very light to very dark. With purple being the chosen color of royalty, amethyst has long enjoyed popularity. The finest quality of amethyst exhibits a high degree of transparency and a rich deep purple color enhanced by flashes of burgundy or rose. Amethyst are most commonly found in Brazil, Uruguay, Canada and the United States (North Carolina). Amethyst is the birthstone for February.

Anniversary Band

Typically given for wedding anniversaries, an anniversary band is a ring that is set with one or more rows of gems, usually diamonds. The diamonds may go completely, three quarters, or half way around the finger.

Appraisal

An appraisal is a written estimate of the approximate retail replacement value of the item described. Appraisals can also be used for insurance purposes.

Aquamarine

Aquamarine is a member of the beryl family and is related to emerald in composition. The Greeks proclaimed this highly prized, light blue gem aquamarine, because it sparkles like the sea touched by the sun. Found in an array of pastel tones from very light to medium blue, aquamarine is often tinted by a splash of green. The delicate greenish blue of a fine aquamarine conjures up images of dancing light on tropical waters. Most aquamarines come from Brazil. Aquamarine is the birthstone for March.

Baguette Cut

A baguette cut is a gemstone or diamond that is cut in a rectangular shape, which is typically used to accent a central stone. A tapered baguette has one short end narrower than the opposite end, forming a trapezoid. A term derived from the French, meaning long and thin.

Bail

A bail is the attachment at the top of a pendant, enabling the pendant to hang from a chain.

Band

A simple ring of equal width around its circumference.

Bar Setting

A variation on the channel setting, bar settings are usually used for wedding bands or designer rings. In the bar setting, thin metal bars are placed between each gemstones on a band to hold them securely in place. This design protects the girdle of the round gemstones or diamonds, holds them securely in place, and offers a smooth, sleek appearance. Bar and channel settings typically cost more than prong settings.

Baroque Pearls

Large oddly shaped pearls.

Bead Setting

A method of setting stones even with the surface of metal by raising beads from the metal itself. The beads act as prongs to secure the stones.

Belcher

A claw style ring mounting that is common in rings for men. The mounting is one piece with the prongs being part of the shank.

Beryl

Beryl is a family of gemstones that includes: green beryl, aquamarine, emerald, heliodor (pink), morganite (yellow), and red.

Bezel

Any part that incorporates a continuous groove to fit something, generally a gem stone or diamond.

Bezel Setting

A bezel setting holds a gemstone or diamond in place using a thin band of metal that surrounds the stone at its middle, or girdle. Bezel settings can completely or partially surround the gem stone or diamond, depending on the style and look desired. This type of setting provides good protection for the middle and bottom portions of a gemstone or diamond. Bezel settings can have straight or scalloped edges, and can be molded to accommodate many shapes of stones.

Birthstone

A birthstone is a gemstone that symbolizes the month of birth in the Gregorian calendar.

Black Pearls (Tahitian Pearls)

Black pearls that are gray to black with green, blue or rose overtones.

Blemish

A blemish is a defect in a gemstone or diamond that is found at the surface. Examples of blemishes include pits, nicks, scratches, chips or even an extra facet where none should be. A blemish is an imperfection on the outside of a diamond or gemstone, which differs from an inclusion. An inclusion is internal to the gemstone or diamond.

Blister Pearls

A blister pearl is a pearl that grows attached to the oyster shell on its side.

Blue Topaz

Blue topaz is light brown or colorless when mined, but turns blue when exposed to light or heat. The largest producer of topaz is Brazil. Blue topaz is one of the birthstones for December.

Box Chain

A box chain is a chain with wide, square links that form boxes.

Box Clasp

A box clasp has a hollow housing with a groove in which a spring tongue clicks into place to secure the clasp shut.

Brilliance

Brilliance describes the amount of light a gemstone or diamond reflects to create sparkle.

Brilliant Cut

A brilliant cut is a type of round cut with facets designed to produce the greatest brilliance. The brilliant cut is the most common style of diamond cutting. The standard brilliant cut consists of 32 facets plus a table above the girdle and 24 facets plus a culet below the girdle.

Briolette Cut

A gemstone or diamond that is cut in a teardrop form. This type of cut is used in many drops and pendants.

Brooch

A brooch is an ornamental piece of jewelry with a pin and clasp to be attached to clothing, etc.

Brushed Finish

Brushed finish, also known as "satin" finish, is a texturing technique used on jewelry metals where a series of tiny parallel lines are scratched on the surface with a wire brush.

Buttercup Setting

A buttercup is a six-prong setting, with tall prongs, that resembles a flower. The setting is scalloped in design.

Button Earrings

Button earrings are flat backed, usually round earrings that sit on the earlobe and have no dangling parts.

Byzantine Chain

A Byzantine chain is a type of chain that has close-fitting links, which create an intricate design and form a tubular chain.

Cabochon

A cabochon is a smooth, round, unfaceted gemstone cut. It's often used to display the stars in sapphires or tiger eyes. Usually an oval shape.

Carat Weight

A carat is a very accurate unit of weight that is used for diamonds and gemstones. The word carat is derived from the carob seed, which was used in the days of antiquity as counterweights on scales for small measurements because Carob seeds were extremely similar in weight. One carat is equal to 100 points.

Carbon

A diamond is composed of pure carbon. Carbon, when subjected to tremendous amounts of heat and pressure, crystallizes and creates a diamond. As a diamond crystal forms, some carbon may not be crystallized, which results in birthmarks known as inclusions. Inclusions aid jewelers in identifying diamonds and make every diamond unique.

Certification

A certification is a grading report that is given to a diamond or gemstone by a reputable and recognized gemological laboratory that defines the physical characteristics and quality rating of a gem. Typically a diamond or colored gem is rated for quality using the Four C's: Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat Weight.

Chalcedony

Chalcedony was once believed to protect from the Evil Eye and give the owner a calm disposition.

Champagne Diamond

A champagne colored diamond has a light brownish color.

Channel Setting

Channel setting is the art of setting gemstones or diamonds in a channel. This setting has two walls of metal between which a gem or diamond is set, so that it appears suspended in a groove. A piece of jewelry with a groove for stones to be set in is also referred to as a channel setting.

Chiton Setting

A chiton setting (also called coronet or arcade setting) is one in which the stone is held in by many metal claws around a metal ring.

Citrine

A member of the quartz family, the citrine is prized for its sunny yellow to earthy brown color. It takes its name from "citron", the French word for lemon. Citrine is found mainly in Brazil, as well as in Uruguay, Scotland and the United States (North Carolina). Citrine is one of the birthstones for November as well as the anniversary gemstone for the 13th year of marriage.

Claddagh Rings

An Irish friendship ring.

Clarity

Clarity is one of the 4 C's of diamond grading. Diamonds and gemstones with the highest clarity contain few or no inclusions (imperfections) in the stone's crystalline structure. Clarity is graded with a 10x magnifier. The clarity rating of a diamond ranges from FL (flawless) to I (inclusions visible to the naked eye).

Clarity Enhancement

A diamond is chemically formed naturally. Diamonds often do not completely crystalize and thus have imperfections. Clarity enhancement techniques fill in those imperfections with material, improving the overall appearance of the diamond.

Clarity Grade

The term grade is used to describe the amount of, or absence of, inclusions within a diamond or other gemstone.

Claw Setting

A claw setting is one in which a series of metal prongs (called claws) holds a stone securely in a setting (the claws grips the stone just above the girdle of the stone), with no metal directly under the stone (it is an open setting). A claw setting lets light in under the stone, so this type of setting is usually used for transparent, faceted stones.

Cleavage

Cleavage is the natural way in which a gemstone or diamond has the tendency to break along its crystal structure when force is applied to it.

Cloisonne

Cloisonnt is a method of applying enamel to metal in which the design is first outlined on the metal surface using a metal wire. The space between the wires is filled with enamel and then fired to a glassy sheen.

Closed Setting

A closed setting is one in which the back of the stone is not exposed (the metal is not cut away behind the stone).

Cloudy

A cloud is a type of inclusion. However, unlike carbon inclusions, which are black, "clouds" are white milky areas (clusters of tiny crystals) inherent in a diamond or gemstone.

Cluster Setting

A cluster setting has small stones set clustered around a larger center stone.

Clutch

A clutch is a device that is used to secure a piece of jewelry, such as backings for earrings.

Color

Color is one of the 4 C's of diamond grading. The letters D through Z are used to designate a diamond's color with D being colorless and Z-graded stones having a lot of color.

Colored Stones

All gemstones other than diamonds, or colored Diamonds.

Comfort Fit Ring

In a comfort fit ring, the inner edges of the ring are very much rounded and smooth, making the interior of the ring looking similar to a slight dome profile. This is done to avoid discomfort due to sharp angles.

Cubic Zirconia

Cubic Zirconia, or CZ, is a hard, relatively inexpensive stone created in laboratories and often cut to resemble a diamond. Cubic zirconia was developed in 1977.

Culet

The culet is the minute facet on the tip of the pavilion of a brilliant cut diamond.

Cultured Pearls

A cultured pearl is created by the insertion of a grain of sand into an oyster. The oyster's protective coating slowly develops into the pearl. Most pearls available today are cultured. Cultured pearl is the birthstone for June.

Cushion Cut

A cushion cut is a gemstone that is cut to mimic a square, yet has rounded edges. The cut is usually brilliant to give the highest light refraction.

Cut

Cut is one of the 4 C's of diamond grading. How well a diamond is cut has a lot to do with the stone's fire and brilliance. A diamond that is cut either too shallow or too deep will not reflect the light properly to and be as brilliant as a correctly cut diamond.

Demi-parure

A demi-parure is a matching set of jewelry, usually containing a necklace, earrings, and a pin.

Deployant Buckle

A deployant buckle is a three-folding clasp, which connects the two ends of a watch bracelet and allows enough room for placing the watch on the wrist when fully extended.

Depth

Depth is the distance from the very top of a diamond or gemstone to the very bottom of a diamond or gemstone.

Diamond

The hardest, rarest, densest natural substance known to man. A precious gemstone composed of pure Carbon. A diamond's quality is rated in accordance with the Four C's: Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat Weight. While Africa is known as the Diamond continent, it is actually in Australia that the largest reserves are to be found - including the very rare and highly valued pink and red fancy colored diamonds.

Diamond accent

A diamond accent is any jewelry that has one or more diamonds with a combined carat weight of less than one-fourth of a carat.

Dinner Ring

An oversized ring, set with non-precious or semiprecious stones.

Dispersion

The fiery, rainbow colors emanating from a diamond as white light is broken-up into colors.

Doublet

A doublet (also dublette) is a gem made from two layers in order to save expenses; the lower part of the composite stone is glass or a non-precious stone, the top is the more valuable stone. Many different types of doublets have been manufactured (including opal doublets). One common doublet contains a layer of real garnet and a layer of glass. A thin, red garnet top is glued to a colored glass bottom. A green glass bottom with a red garnet top layer produces an emerald-like stone. A diamond is enlarged by cementing it to a crystal base.

Earring Jacket

An earring jacket is a decorative backdrop that surrounds a stud earring. The stud can be removed and placed into different jackets.

Ear Screws

Screwed onto the lobe, allow for exact adjustment - an alternative for those who find clips too painful. Also much more secure for precious jewelry.

EGL

European Gemological Laboratory - EGL has franchises in a number of cities around the world which grade diamonds and offer a diamond grading certificate.

Electroplating

The process of coating a base metal with a thin film of gold by means of electrolysis. The base metal is set in a chemical solution, which, as an electric current flows through it, coats it with precious metal.

Emerald

Emerald, with its rich green reflecting the colors of spring, has been treasured for thousands of years as an emblem of rebirth and enduring love. Emeralds are made of the base mineral beryl, with minute traces of chromium and vanadium giving this gemstone the "green fire". Today, most emeralds are mined in Colombia, Brazil and Zambia. Colombian emeralds are known for their vivid green color, while Brazilian emeralds are known for their variety of color, ranging from light green to fine medium dark green. With hardness close to 8 on the Moh's scale, emeralds are quite durable. Emerald is the birthstone for May.

Emerald Cut

A rectangular, faceted gemstone cut that was first used in emeralds. The emerald cut has a deep center that intensifies stone color.

Engagement Ring

An engagement ring is set with a gemstone or diamond, and is traditionally given to a woman by a man to signify their intention to be married.

Engraving

Engraving is the process of etching a design, initials, family crest or anything else into the surface of metal.

Eternity Rings

Eternity rings are rings with stones, usually diamonds, of the same cut and size, set in one row all around the ring. The stones are usually round or square, and the setting is usually either claws or a channel setting.

Eye-Clean

In clarity-grading, eye-clean diamonds should have no inclusions that are visible through the table to the unaided eye.

Facet

A facet is a smooth, flat surface cut into a gemstone or diamond to refract and reflect light.

Fancy Color Diamond

A diamond that exhibits a strong color, such as yellow, as opposed to an off colored white diamond. Fancy colored diamonds can be very expensive and are often highly prized by collectors. Fancy colored diamonds have been found in many colors of the spectrum.

Fancy Shapes

Gemstones or diamonds cut in any way other than round. Fancy shapes include marquise, emerald, pear, heart, oval, princess, baguette and trillion.

Faux

Faux means false. A faux gem or diamond is an imitation.

Feather

A feather is an inherent inclusion, or flaw, within a diamond or gemstone. It is often only a tiny crack. Depending on the depth or placement of the feather, they may make a gemstone or diamond more fragile and susceptible to further cracking. However, it is possible that it may have no affect on the strength or beauty of the diamond whatsoever.

Filigree

A filigree design is lace-like ornamental detail made from intricately arranged wires.

Finish

The finish of a diamond refers to the polish on the external portion of a diamond. When a diamond or gemstone is well cut and polished, it is said to have a beautiful finish. Finish is also used to describe the polish or texture applied to the metal on an item of jewelry. Common finishes include high polish, matte, brushed, or Florentine.

Fissure

A fissure is an elongated fracture or crack in the surface of a diamond or gemstone.

Florentine Finish

A Florentine finish is a crosshatched pattern, tooled into the surface of metal. The lines are often coarser and more deeply incised than that on a brushed finish.

Fluorescence

Fluorescence is the light that is emitted from a diamond when subjected to ultraviolet rays. This fluorescent glow is not considered when grading a diamond for quality (using the Four C's); it is simply an inherent characteristic of a diamond (or gemstone).

Four C's

An abbreviation used to describe the Color, Clarity, Carat and Cut of a gemstone or diamond as defined by the G.I.A. The G.I.A. created a diamond grading system using the 4Cs.

Fracture

A fracture is a crack or feather in a diamond or gemstone in the opposite direction of its naturally occurring crystals.

French Back

A French back is an earring back for non-pierced ears where the earring is tightened against the earlobe by means of a screw.

Freshwater Pearl

A freshwater pearl is formed in a lake or river. Freshwater pearls are known for their unusual forms.

GAL

Gemological Appraisal Laboratory of America, a diamond and jewelry appraisal service located in the NYC Diamond District, offering accurate and unbiased evaluations.

Garnet

Usually dark red stones, garnets can also occur in shades of green, yellow, orange, brown, pink and purple. The name "Garnet" is believed to have derived from "pomegranate" with its red, Garnet colored seeds. They are mined in Russia, Sri Lanka, Brazil, Argentina, Afghanistan, Madagascar, Canada, Mexico, Tanzania, India and the United States (California). It has a hardness of 6.5 --7.5 on the Moh's Scale. Garnet is the birthstone for January.

Gemstone (Gem)

A stone that has been cut and polished for use in jewelry, which also fulfills the requirements of beauty, durability and rarity.

German Silver

German silver (also know as nickel silver) is an alloy consisting of mostly copper (roughly 60 percent), and approximately 20 percent nickel, about 20 percent zinc, and sometimes about 5 percent tin (then the alloy is called alpaca). There is no silver at all in German silver. This alloy was invented around 1860 in Germany as a silver substitute.

GIA

The Gemological Institute of America. A highly respected, not for profit organization, devoted to the promotion of education and ethics within the jewelry industry. G.I.A. also has a laboratory used to grade and identify gemstones.

Girdle

The outermost (widest) edge of a diamond or gemstone. Girdle is the largest diameter of any part of a gemstone or diamond.

Gold

A warm, yellow metal of great beauty, value and weight. In its pure state, measured as 24 karats, it is too soft to be worked for jewelry. Alloy metals are melded with pure gold to create harder substances and colors like white and pink gold. Eighteen karat gold is 18 of 24 parts pure gold, while 14 karat gold is 14 of 24 parts pure gold.

Gold Filled (Gold Overlay)

An item made of a base metal such as brass or copper, to which a sheet of gold is bonded by pressure or other means. To qualify as gold filled, an article of jewelry must have a layer of gold at least 1/20th, or 5% of the weight of the entire article.

Gold Plated

A thin layer of electroplated gold that is on a base metal. All gold plated items are not plated with fine gold; some are only plated gold in color.

Grading Report

The grading report, also know as a certificate, issued by an independent laboratory. It should accurately describe the proportions, weight, color, clarity, symmetry, polish and possible fluorescence seen in the diamond or gemstone being evaluated. Some labs such as the GIA and AGS. are felt by many experts to be more consistent and stringent in their grading than some other labs.

Grams

Grams, which is abbreviated GR, is usually used to express the weight of jewelry pieces. Grams is a metric unit of mass equal to one thousandth of a kilogram

Hallmark

A hallmark is an official mark (or a series of marks) made in metal that indicates the fineness of the metal and the manufacturer's mark. For example, a hallmark of 925 indicates 925 parts of gold per 1000 weight. Other hallmarks indicate the maker of the piece and sometimes the year of manufacture. In many countries (like Britain) it is illegal to hallmark metal incorrectly; however, some countries are notoriously lax in their enforcement of hallmark honesty.

Hand Made

A hand made piece of jewelry is created completely by hand. It is not assembled from parts or made in a die or mold in anyway whatsoever.

Hardness

Hardness is a stone's ability to resist scratching, surface inclusions, abrasions or cracking. It is rated using the Mohs scale.

Heart Cut

A diamond or gemstone cut in the shape of a heart.

Herkimer Diamond

Herkimer diamonds are clear, lustrous, doubly terminated crystals of quartz - they are not true diamonds. These brilliant stones are also called "Middleville Diamonds" or "Little Falls Diamonds." Herkimer diamonds have a hardness of 7.

High Polish

High polish refers to the mirror-like surface of jewelry metal.

Hue

Hue is the term used for the actual color of the spectrum (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo or violet). The more pure a gemstone's hue, the more valuable. Because gemstones are comprised of many naturally occurring elements, they typically emit one primary color and one or more underlying colors.

IGI

International Gemological Institute, a laboratory that offers grading reports. IGI also produces written appraisals.

Illusion Setting

An illusion setting is used to make diamonds appear larger than they are.

Inclusion

An inclusion is a imperfection or flaw in a diamond or other gemstone that affects the stone's clarity. Many inclusions decrease the value of a stone, but some, like asterisms in star sapphires and needles in rutilated quartz and tourmalinated quartz, are prized.

Inlay

A decorative element, such as a stone or piece of metal, that is embedded in and is flush with another surface to form a pleasing pattern or shape.

Iolite

Iolite is a transparent, violet-blue, light blue, or yellow-gray mineral that will show many colors in a single stone. It is a durable stone with a hardness of 7-7.5 on the Mohs scale. Most of the Iolite available today comes from Sri Lanka, India, Madagascar and Burma. Iolite has become the accepted anniversary gemstone for the twenty-first year of marriage.

Iridescent

A shimmery effect best known in pearls and opals in which different colors are visible depending on how the light strikes the material.

Irradiated Diamonds

Irradiated diamonds are diamonds that have been exposed to radiation. This changes the diamond's color (as the radiation changes the crystalline structure of the diamond). The change in the diamond is permanent. Older radiation treatments involving exposing the stone to radium; newer treatments bombard the stone with atomic particles in a cyclotron.

Jewelers of America - an organization which focuses on improving and protecting the reputation of the jewelry industry. Their Code of Professional Practices establishes a high standard for each member.

Jade

The term jade actually refers to two distinct types of stone that closely resemble one another - the more common nephrite and the more expensive jadeite. Jadeite predominantly comes from Burma and while it is available in gray, yellow, pink, blue, lavender, red, white, brown and black, it is most popular in the classic green. The Chinese jade is a physical symbol of spiritual virtue. When jade is designed for jewelry it is said to fend off evil spirits. It has been given a reputation as a symbol for modesty, courage, wisdom, and justice.

Jump Ring

A jump ring is an oval or round ring of metal wire used as an attachment loop on charms, as a pendant bail, or as an end ring on a chain.

JVC

Jewelers Vigilance Committee - The JVC is considered the industry's leading authority on legal compliance and is a champion of safeguarding the industry's integrity.

Karat

Karat (abbreviated K or Kt or Kts) is the measurement of gold used to note the purity and fineness of the metal. Pure gold is 24 karat and one karat is equal to1/24 part pure gold in an alloy. (14kt. gold is 14 parts gold and 8 parts other metal.)

Lapis Lazuli

This stones name comes from the Latin word for stone, lapis. Lapis lazuli is the only "rock" - composed of several minerals rather than a single one. The characteristic blue comes from sodalite minerals, with any white coming from calcite, and its sparkling gold flecks from pyrite. Lapis Lazuli is one of the most popular stone for men's jewelry and most commonly appears as beads or earrings in women's jewelry.

Lariat

A type of necklace consisting of a long strand that is sometimes looped into a knot or used with a slide so the two ends hang free.

Lavalier

A lavalier is a pendant with a dangling stone that hangs from a necklace.

Lever Back Earring

A leverback earring is a style that latches behind the ear.

Lobster Claw Clasp

A clasp for a necklace or bracelet that has an elongated hook, which resembles a lobster claw. The hook has a spring mechanism and opens to clasp a small ring on the other end of the chain or strand.

Locket

A locket is a pendant that opens to reveal a space used for storing a photograph or other small item such as a curl of hair. Lockets are usually given to loved ones on holidays such as Valentine's Day and occasions such as Christenings, weddings and, most noticeably during the Victorian Age, funerals.

Loupe

A small magnifying lens, usually 10x magnification.

Luster

Luster is the degree to which a diamond or gemstone reflects light.

Marquise

A gemstone shape pointed at both ends and oval shaped in the center.

Matinee-length

A matinee-length necklace is a single strand that is from 22 to 23 inches (56 to 58 cm) long. Matinee-length generally refers to a string of pearls that hangs to the top of the cleavage.

Matte Finish

Matte finish, also known as a brushed or satin finish, is a texturing technique used on jewelry metals where a series of tiny parallel lines are scratched on the surface with a wire brush.

Melee

A melee is a small diamond, under .20 carats.

Memory Wire

Memory wire is a tough, stiff wire that retains its shape. It is often used for necklaces and bracelets.

Mexican Diamond

Mexican diamond is a misleading term for rock crystal, and is not a diamond at all.

Millimeters

Millimeters, which is abbreviated MM, is a metric measurement used for pearls, diamonds & gemstones.

Mine Cut

Mine cut stones have a cushion-shaped girdle. This type of cut was popular in the late 1800's.

Mohs Scale

The Moh's scale was devised in 1812 by Austrian mineralogist, Friedrich Moh, to measure a mineral's hardness and it's resistance to scratching. The scale goes from talc as number 1, being the softest, to diamonds as number 10, being the hardest substance known.

Montana Ruby

A Montana ruby is actually a garnet, and is not a ruby at all.

Moonstone

Moonstone is the most valuable variety of feldspar with an iridescent sheen known as adularescence. Moonstone's characteristic shimmer is caused by the intergrowth of two different types of feldspar with different refractive indexes. Moonstones come in a variety of colors, ranging from colorless to gray, brown, yellow, green, or pink.

Mother's Rings

A ring worn by a mother displaying the birthstone of each of her children, and sometimes including those of the mother and father.

Mystic Topaz

Mystic Topaz is topaz that has been color enhanced by coating it with a fine layer of metal atoms (in a process called vacuum deposition). This stone has red, green, violet, and blue streaks. Mystic fire has a hardness of 8.

Nickel Silver

Nickel silver (also know as German silver) is an alloy consisting of mostly copper (roughly 60 percent), and approximately 20 percent nickel, about 20 percent zinc, and sometimes about 5 percent tin (then the alloy is called alpaca). There is no silver at all in German/nickel silver. This alloy was invented around 1860 in Germany as a silver substitute.

Oiling

Oiling, a process of applying mineral oil to a stone, is used to mask inclusions or enhance the color of a gemstone. Emeralds, although very valuable are typically infused with inclusions. Emeralds are often oiled to improve quality.

Omega Chain

An omega chain has closely interlocking links, which forms a flat, solid surface.

Omega Back

An omega back is a hinged closure resembling the Latin letter, Omega, and is used to secure a post earring to the ear.

Onyx

Onyx is a semiprecious type of chalcedony quartz that is found naturally in white or gray; however, it is typically dyed black.

Opal

Unlike any other gemstone, opal dazzles the eye with colors that move and shift within the opal's mysterious depths. Opal is comprised mostly of tightly packed silica (sand) and water. The silica refracts light and creates the rainbow of colors for which opal is known. The wider and more brilliant the range of color in an opal, the more valuable it is. Opals vary widely in body color, with white being the most common. Most high-quality opals found today come from the deserts of Australia. Opal is the birthstone for October.

Opal Triplet

An opal triplet is a manufactured stone that is composed of three thin layers that are glued together. A thin layer of opal is sandwiched between a layer of clear quartz and a layer of either obsidian or ironstone. The clear quartz is the top layer, making the gem harder (and less susceptible to scratches). An opal triplet is an opal doublet with a quartz layer on top. Triplets must be cleaned very carefully.

Opaque

Opaque means blocking the passage of light (as opposed to translucent or transparent).

Opera-Length

An opera-length necklace is a single strand that is from 30 to 35 inches (60 to 90 cm) long. Opera-length generally refers to a string of pearls that hangs to the breastbone.

Oval Cut

An oblong, faceted gemstone cut with rounded edges. It is a variation of the round brilliant cut. Oval cuts are popular for colored gemstones and diamonds.

Palladium

Palladium is a precious metal that is lighter and less expensive than platinum and is mixed with yellow gold to create white gold.

Parure

A parure is a matching set of jewelry, usually containing a necklace, earrings, brooch and a bracelet (or two bracelets).

Paste

Paste is glass that is cut and faceted to imitate gemstones.

Pave Setting

A type of setting where several small gems are set together to give the appearance of an uninterrupted surface.

Pavilion

The pavilion is the bottom or base portion of a diamond or gemstone; the lower part below the girdle.

Pear Cut

A pear cut is a faceted cut that is teardrop shaped. Pear cuts are popular for pendants, rings and earrings, and are suitable for diamonds and colored gemstones.

Pendant

A charm or other item worn on a chain that swings freely.

Penny Weight

Pennyweight, abbreviated PWT, is a unit of measurement used for precious metals. Pennyweight is equal to 1/20th of an ounce.

Peridot

The peridot reflects a variety of green hues, from dark leek green to a lighter yellow green. Peridot is a gemstone variety of chrysolite that varies in color depending upon the balance of iron and magnesium within the stone. The dominant source of peridot today is Arizona, with other significant deposits in Myanmar, Brazil, Australia, Norway and Africa. Peridot is the birthstone for August.

Platinum

Platinum, which is abbreviated PT or PLAT, is the most precious metal in jewelry making. It has a silvery-white tone and does not tarnish. In addition, it is one of heaviest known substances.

Plumb Gold

A term used to describe gold jewelry that contains the precise amount of gold in the alloy that the Karat mark indicates. In the past an item marked 14Kt could legally have been 13.5 karat and still considered 14K. Today an item marked 14k must be at least 14 of 24 parts fine gold and is considered plumb gold.

Point

A unit of measure used to express the weight of gemstones, equal to 1/100th of a carat. Twenty-five points (25) describes a 1/4 carat diamond.

Precious Metal

Three metals -- gold, silver and platinum -- that have been prized for centuries for rarity, beauty and physical properties.

Precious Stone

Gemstones such as diamond, emerald, ruby and sapphire that are especially prized for beauty and rarity.

Premium Cut

The brilliance of a diamond depends on proper cutting. Premium cut to Ideal cut diamonds ensure that the diamond chosen will be as brilliant as it is beautiful. A diamond with these premium proportions will cost more but its brilliance is well worth the added investment.

Princess Cut

A square, faceted gemstone cut. The princess cut has a broad, flat face area and parallel V-shaped grooves underneath with a border of variously shaped facets. This cut provides excellent light refraction and is a popular for diamonds.

Princess Length

A princess length necklace (usually referring to a string of pearls) is 18" long.

Prong Setting

A setting used for diamonds and gemstones whereby a group of claws or prongs hold a gemstone in its mounting.

Quartz

A crystalline mineral used for gems, including amethyst and rock crystal. Available in a variety of colors.

Radiant Cut

Radiant cut gemstones have a total of 70 facets, combining the shape of an emerald cut gem and the sparkle of a brilliant cut square or rectangular gem.

Reconstructed Stone

A reconstructed stone is one that is made from pieces of smaller stones or crystals). Reconstructed stones often have telltale air bubbles. For example, "Geneva rubies" (reconstructed rubies) are made from tiny ruby crystals that have been fused together.

Rhinestones

Rhinestones are highly reflective glass made to imitate gemstones. The original rhinestones were quartz stones (rock crystal) obtained from the Rhine River. These stones were cut to resemble gemstones. The best rhinestones today are made of highly reflective leaded glass, which is faceted and polished.

Rhodium

Rhodium is a metal that is part of the platinum family. Silver, gold, and even base metals are often Rhodium plated to give them the white, shiny look associated with platinum. Genuine rhodium in raw state is liquid. Although in the platinum family of metals, it is not the same as platinum, which is a solid precious metal.

Rhodium Plating

Rhodium is used to plate white gold or yellow gold or sterling, because it is harder and more reflective and white in color. Rhodium plating gives a bright, shiny, long-lasting silver-colored finish to a piece. With Rhodium plating you can achieve the high white luster of Platinum. For people who are allergic to 10k or 14k gold jewelry, and cannot afford the high price associated with Platinum, Rhodium plating helps minimizing allergic effects and is a good alternative. It is noted that any kind of plating will eventually wear off, requiring additional plating to maintain the desired coloring effect.

Rolled Gold

Rolled gold is a very thin sheet of gold that is laminated to a lesser metal (usually brass). The two layers of metal are heated under pressure to fuse them together. The sheet is them rolled into a very thin sheet and then used to make jewelry or other objects. Jewelry made from rolled gold wears well over time. Rolled gold pieces are marked rolled gold plate, R.G.P., or plaquT d'or laminT.

Round Cut

Round brilliant cut gemstones are known to have the most vibrancy and sparkle. With 57 or 58 facets radiating from the center out to the girdle, a brilliant cut maximizes the amount of light that is reflected from the core of the gemstone.

Rope Chain

A rope chain is a spiral-like chain with an appearance of two thick, woven strands.

Rose Quartz

Carried by people to insure peace, fidelity, and happiness. People believed rose quartz could emit a calm and cool energy, which would enable it to gently remove all negativity and allow a person to feel the loving, gentle forces of self-love. People felt this stone was good to wear in a chaotic or crisis situation, and they referred to it as "the stone of gentle love" because they believed it to be able to bring peace and calm to all relationships. It was also thought to be an excellent energy for healing emotional "wounds".

Ruby

A member of the corundum family of gems, the ruby is a red, clear stone. Known as the "king of gems" the ruby is second only in value to diamond (exceptional specimens surpass diamonds in value). Rubies are mined in Burma, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Kenya and Tanzania. Ruby is the birthstone for July.

Safety Catch

A safety catch is a secondary closure, used in case the main clasp opens. It is usually a hinged loop that is attached to one side of the clasp and snaps closed onto the other side.

Sapphire

A member of the corundum family of gems, sapphires are most commonly known for their deep blue color, although sapphires can also be pink, orange, yellow, green, purple and colorless. Sapphires are found in Kashmir, Myanmar Sri Lanka, Thailand, China, India, Cambodia, Australia and the United States (Montana). Sapphire is the birthstone for September.

Sardonyx

Believed to be able to lead a person to high position, honor, renown, and financial rewards. It was said that if you hung sardonyx around your neck, it could ease pain, give a person self-control, help to attract friends, insure a happy marriage, and bring success in legal matters. It was also believed to be able to restrain people who were inclined to dissipation, and to be able to protect the wearer from all infections.

Satin Finish

Satin finish, also known as a brushed or matte finish, is a texturing technique used on jewelry metals where a series of tiny parallel lines are scratched on the surface with a wire brush.

Saturation

Saturation is the intensity of brightness or dullness of the color. The more color saturated a gemstone is, the more valuable it becomes.

Scintillation

Scintillation (sparkle) is the tiny flashes of light noticeable in a diamond when the observer moves his/her head.

Screw Back

A screw back is an ear nut that screws onto a threaded earring post; usually used with diamond stud earrings.

Semi-mount

A semi-mount is a finished item of jewelry except for the center stone setting, to which a stone is added separately.

Semi-precious Gemstones

A group of gemstones that are prized for their beauty.

Setting

Setting refers to the style in which a gemstone is held by precious metal into a mounting. Common settings include bezel, pave', channel or prong. Setting also refers to the part of jewelry in which one or more stones are set.

Shank

The shank is the round body of the ring that encircles the finger, not including the setting.

Shape

There are eight common stone shapes. They are round, marquise, pear, oval, heart, princess/radiant, emerald, and trillion. The round is the most popular (the rest are called fancy-shaped). There are also other shapes created and sold by manufacturers.

Shoulder

The part of the ring that extends from the shank to the center of the setting.

Signet

A ring with a flat table or face on which there is an inscription of a coat of arms, family crest or some other type of insignia or monogram.

Silver

Fine silver is a white precious metal that is 999/1000 pure in its natural form and too soft for practical use. Sterling silver is a shiny mixture of 92.5 % pure silver (925 parts) with 7.5 % metal alloy used for jewelry.

Sleeve Rings

Sleeve rings are rings that consist of a thin inner ring or sleeve, with several other rings stacked onto it to form one solid ring. The rings can either be soldered onto the sleeve or the ends of the sleeve can be upset (like a tube rivet) to keep them all together.

Smokey Quartz

A dark variety of quartz that is deep brown in color with a smoky appearance.

Snap-bar Closure Earrings

A straight, hinged bar that lifts up and down in order to secure or release an earring.

Solitaire

A single gemstone or diamond that is mounted in a simple setting.

Sparkle

The sparkle of a diamond or gemstone is the result of the facets that are cut to reflect light. Sparkle is also referred to as brilliance.

Spring Ring

A spring ring is a round, tubular metal fastening ring with a spring gap. A spring-loaded arm keeps the clasp closed.

Stack Ring

Rings that are designed to be worn two or more at a time on the same finger.

Stainless Steel

An extremely durable metal alloy that is virtually immune to rust, discoloration and corrosion. It can be highly polished to resemble a precious metal. Because of its strength, stainless steel is often used to make the case backs for watches.

Stamping

Stamping is cutting or embossing a sheet of metal with a punch or a die.

Star Setting

A star setting is one in which a gemstone or diamond is set within an engraved star; the gem is secured by a small grain of metal soldered to the base of each ray of the star.

Step-Cut

A gem cut with a varying number of sloping parallel rows of four-sided facets that give the impression of steps.

Sterling Silver

The designation for a relatively pure silver alloy consisting of 925 parts silver and 75 parts of another metal.

Striations

Striations are grooves, lines and scratches found naturally in some minerals.

Stud Earrings

Stud earrings, also called studs, are a small, simple style of earring for pierced ears. Studs contain a single stone (such as a pearl, gemstone or diamond) or metal ball on a straight post. Diamond studs are probably the most popular type of Diamond earrings.

Sugalite

Sugalite is an unusual deep purple stone from Southern Africa. It has a hardness of 6 - 6.5 on the Moh's Scale. Sugilite is found in Japan, Canada and South Africa.

Symmetry

The symmetry of a diamond or gemstone is the uniform degree to which a gemstone is cut.

Synthetic Gemstones

Synthetic gemstones, also called created, lab grown, or man-made, are materials produced in a laboratory, which imitate the characteristics of naturally occurring gems. Often difficult to distinguish from natural gemstones, synthetic gems are typically created with little or no imperfections.

Table

The table is the flat facet on the top of a gemstone, located in the center of the crown.

Tahitian Pearls (Black Pearls)

Tahitian pearls, also know as black pearls, are gray to black with green, blue or rose overtones.

Tanzanite

A relative newcomer to the jewelry industry, tanzanite was discovered in 1967. It was named for its country of origin, Tanzania. Tanzanite has quickly won over gem lovers with velvety purple and blue hues. A tanzanite can appear blue, purple or reddish from different angles.

Tapered Baguette

A baguette in which the two short edges are unequal in length causing the longer sides to taper in towards the short edge. Tapered baguettes are very popular as accents in the settings of engagement rings.

Tennis Bracelet

A tennis bracelet is made of matched gemstones or diamonds. It is flexible and is usually worn loose around the wrist.

Tension Setting

In a tension setting, the center stone appears to be suspended in mid-air. This way, light refraction and therefore brilliance is indeed maximized.

Tiffany Setting

A solitaire style setting that has a four or six prong head or setting. It is usually used for rings or earrings.

Titanium

A very light, durable, hypoallergenic metal of a silvery color. It is popular among active people who don't want to worry about scratching their jewelry.

Tone

Tone represents how light or dark a stone appears by how much brown, black, gray or white is present.

Topaz

Topaz comes in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes making it ideal for a wide variety of jewelry. The world's largest supplier of topaz is Brazil and is the birthday stone for November.

Total Weight

Total weight, abbreviated as t.w. or tw, is the sum of the carat weight of all of the gemstones or diamonds in a piece of jewelry.

Tourmaline

Tourmaline comes in all spectrums of color, the most common being green and pink. With a hardness of 7-7.5, this gem is ideal for all types of jewelry setting.

Trillion Cut

Trillion cut, also called trilliant or triangle, is a triangular shaped diamond or gemstone.

Trinity Rings

Trinity rings or Trilogy Rings are three rings to be worn at one time.

Translucent

Translucent materials allow light to pass through them, but the light is diffused (scattered). Some translucent stones include moonstones, opals, and carnelian.

Transparent

Transparent materials allow light to pass through them without diffusing (scattering) the light. Some translucent stones include diamond, zircon, emerald, rock crystal, and ruby.

Trembler

A trembler is a piece of jewelry that has a part (or parts) set on a spring; the spring-set parts move as the wearer of the jewelry moves.

Troy Weight

Precious metals (like gold, platinum, and silver) are measured in troy weight, which has units of pennyweights, ounces, and pounds. Troy ounces and pounds are different from everyday US measures.

Turquoise

Turquoise is the heart of Southwestern tradition. In Native American lore, turquoise is referred to as the Sky Stone, representing the eternal heavens, the life giving sun, renewing rains. According to Navajo legend, the sun was created from a piece of turquoise, the moon from a piece of shell. Turquoise is the first recorded stone in history to be used as a gem. Turquoise is currently mined in Arizona and New Mexico, USA; Australia; Afghanistan; and Iran, which produces the finest quality of Turquoise. It is the birthday stone for December.

Wedding Ring

A ring presented in many marriage ceremonies to signify marital commitment. Originally worn only by the woman, it is now common for both spouses to wear such a ring.

Wedding Set

A woman's wedding and engagement ring designed to be worn together. Sometimes the wedding ring is shaped so that it fits around the solitaire engagement ring, making the set look like a single piece.

White Gold

White gold is alloyed with nickel and Zinc.

Yellow Gold

The most popular gold alloy. An alloy of gold, silver, copper and zinc.

Y-necklace

This style gets its name from its shape, which features its own delicate dangle that forms a Y around the neck (Usually 16 to 18 inches in length).